Find out unique and better ways to create things with your Tiko.
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BY Pratyeka
Here it is people, my fix for the motor gearbox backlash problem. when completed and installed, I observed that when holding the Tiko right side up and pushing up on the head, I could see the motors moving up slightly before I could feel the resistance of the rotors. Then when I release the head, everything moves down under the weight until all the slack of the gears is caught-up, meaning that ideal weight is pulling down and no more backlash in the gears. So now there is no delays when reversing direction in any of the motors. This along Teflon tape around the motor carriage clips and lithium grease on the guide tracks makes this printer as good as it can get.
Total weight added to each motors: 82 ~ 85 grams. I have added 20 gr to each motors, so total is ~105 gr each
These picture are self explanatory. I use a hot melt glue gun, epoxy would do too.
Last edited by Pratyeka on Sat Feb 18, 2017 8:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.
funny, can't attach more than 3 pics...
Once everything is in place, leave the Tiko on it's side and power it on. Observe how the motor do the homing motion. If nothing is in the way, they will move to the top, stop, go down, then return to the top and stop.
If something is blocking the homing motion, you will hear one or more motor strain and shake, eventually it will stop and flash the SOS. Locate which motor(s) is hitting what (probably on of the ribs at the very top), take it out and trim out the part that hits the obstacle. Put everything back in and try again.

Here is the STL of the gyzmo: ... mQyTnlsSGc
Here's how my Tiko looks like after weeks of tinkering...
Bowden tube: drilled a hole in the side so it comes out almost straight out of the extruder, minimal curve.
Two holes near the top; I needed a clear view of what is going on when the motors move to the home position.
Hole in clear plastic, near the base: clear, no distorsion view, access during print, able to use paper during manual calibration to feel tip contact.
Presently printing my own torture test. It looks perfect. The round parts are actually round, not difformed like before the backlash correction. Using this profile:
So do you find that you no longer need the carbon fiber tubes to stiffen the arms?

Where did you source the weights from?
I don't know if stiffening the rods with carbon fibre tube will make any difference, it might. I will be able to test since I have ordered a set of rods and connecting rods.

I cut the weights from a steel bar, 20mm X 20mm, about 15mm long. But it would be possible to use pellets, bearings or any heavy granular material and mix with epoxy to fill the cavities.
I was lucky to evaluate the required weight for my Tiko, but it might be different with other.
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