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Nice work!Putting the weight on the head did solve some problems related to calibration, but I was still having layer shift problems because it was too light to cancel the backlash in the gear boxes.
Your original weight was 85 g (nut) and that seemed to work for you. But now you need 3x that weight? Did I read that right?
Have you been able to compare your Tiko to those of us who got theirs later than you?No, do you mean compare the print quality? No. But anyone can check my latest print here.http://forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1083#p5633
I hope this isn't tangential (off-topic), but: I was researching replacing the arms just now and found this. They are spring loading horizontally between the two arms from each motor, close to the effector end and at the motor end, in order to reduce backlash. This is not my wheelhouse, though. What do you think?Interesting site. I think someone here used rubber bands to do exactly just that.
Here it is people, my fix for the motor gearbox backlash problem. when completed and installed, I observed that when holding the Tiko right side up and pushing up on the head, I could see the motors moving up slightly before I could feel the resistance of the rotors. Then when I release the head, everything moves down under the weight until all the slack of the gears is caught-up, meaning that ideal weight is pulling down and no more backlash in the gears. So now there is no delays when reversing direction in any of the motors. This along Teflon tape around the motor carriage clips and lithium grease on the guide tracks makes this printer as good as it can get.Any chance you could upload that STL please?
Total weight added to each motors: 82 ~ 85 grams.
These picture are self explanatory. I use a hot melt glue gun, epoxy would do too.