Find out unique and better ways to create things with your Tiko.
Just chiming in that I got my best print yet after greasing my rails. I tested for looseness and they all feel fine. Tried to print this nautilus gear 3 times and got bad layer shift every time, then got 2 nice prints after greasing the rails.
I may have spoken too soon. I tried printing the parts for @Pratyeka's spool holder and had 6 failed prints today, all bad layer shifting. Trying something smaller now--the keychain project from the TinkerCAD tutorial, and with some FoxSmart PLA. If that works well, I may try it on the filament spool holder tomorrow.
Pratyeka's spool holder is a behemoth. Maybe try something in between the demo object and something that fills the pint bed?
I just wanted to comment to say thanks! I instantly went from about a 30% success rate to over 70%. A very nice change. The failures I have now all seem to come from poorly adjusted temps or bad models and I can fix those.
Congrats! Would you list the mods you made for reference? Also how mechanically inclined are you? That might encourage those who hesitate to jump in 8-)

Took a little time to get back. Been too busy printing. I used the Teflon tape and Lithium grease. I find that things improved if I greased the ball-ends of the supports as well as the rails. The grease goes on easily with a Q-Tip. I move the print head off to one side of the case, that gives me plenty of room to grease the rails and also opens up the two opposite ball connectors to grease those as well. I then move the the print head towards a different wall and repeat.

I am fairly inclined mechanically, but this is something my seven year old son can do. The tape is a little trickier but holding one end with reverse tweezers while wrapping the tape around the clamp makes it pretty painless.
This is a cross post from the ZetaBoard.

I have been working back and forth with play and backlash. More weight = more play. More teflon, or tighter clips, means more resistance, which masks backlash. It takes more weight to force the gear into position against resistance.

On the weekend I decided to double the weight on each motor, so using 4 x 42g sinkers per motor.


The circles have improved quite a bit and layer shifting has dropped visibly, so I think this is a move in the right direction.

But (and there is always a but) I had this pattern on the raft this morning. (A is the rail with the power plug)


I flipped the printer over, re-checked that the weights were not causing visible interference, (moved a couple) and retried. The crook in the lines had reduced, but now the lines, though parallel, are grouped in twos with a wider gap between them.

I think these symptoms are likely related and the pairing should be pointing me to the arm/motor that needs attention.

I don't see any sign of skipped steps, but the very tightest circle, an axle hole in the middle of a gear, is not round....

Thanks in advance for your wisdom!

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